Koh Phi Phi is located in the Andaman Sea and easily reachable. It is part of a group of Phi Phi Islands National Park, consisting of two big islands – Koh Phi Phi Don and Koh Phi Phi Le and four smaller islands, Koh Yung, Koh Mai Phai, Koh Pida Nok and Koh Pida Nai.
NB: Koh Phi Phi Le was the island where Alex Garland’s novel The Beach was filmed in 2000 – on Maya Bay – with Leonardo DiCaprio as the Hollywood star. Sadly, the impact of this has been tragic for the bay – the damage to the marine ecosystem so severe that the Thai authorities closed it to visitors for two years. It reopened in January 2022 although still closes for two months every year – between 1st August and 1st October to give the marine life and coral time to recuperate. Not only are the rules around the bay now strict – you can’t swim in the sea for instance, it is also horrendously touristy. Lots of tours are brought in from surrounding islands and the mainland – all promising the deserted island experience – in reality, you will get to stand on the beach with hundreds of other visitors – just to say you visited it.
We avoided Koh Phi Phi Le like the plague. There are lots of beautiful, secluded white sand beaches everywhere – no need to ‘tick this one off the list’. Nothing worse than being herded somewhere, taking a photo and then going somewhere else.
What to Do in Ko Phi Phi
We loved Ko Phi Phi. We only stayed for two nights and wished we had stayed for at least an extra night. Other blogs might suggest you do it as a day trip from other areas – we would advise against it. You get herded onto boats – brought across – you have limited time to browse Tonsai Village and the port area (which isn’t the prettiest and you certainly wouldn’t want to sit on the beach there), a buffet lunch in a huge hall, and then back to your starting point. There’s far more to Ko Phi Phi than this.
Tonsai Village is the hub of the island and the first place you arrive at when you disembark at Tonsai Bay. It reminded us of a Moroccan Souk – narrow lanes twisting and turning – bustling with people and animals – noisy and chaotic. It has countless restaurants, bars, tattoo shops and dive centres. It is very small, very bustling and hard to navigate when you first arrive, hot, sweaty and carrying a heavy rucksack. There are NO CARs on the island. Local cart ‘drivers’ offer to carry your bags from the dock to your hotel – the rate is negotiated depending on distance, heaviness etc. They run up and down the narrow lanes with their trollies, luggage and no bells – so be careful they don’t knock into you.
Tattoo shops are prevalent and range from exceptionally high quality and expensive to downright shoddy and cheap. It’s fascinating to watch some of the artists at work.
If you are planning on adding some art work to your body – probably good to do your research before you arrive as the choice is mind-blowing.
Dive shops are equally prevalent, due to the amazing dive spots surrounding the islands. Again, worth doing your homework before you arrive. We had already booked a dive with a company online. Competition on the island is high and many are touting for business, offering all sorts of packages for different levels of divers. Be aware also, that the marine landscape is part of the National park and you will therefore, pay an extra 400 Baht (£9) to visit it.
Tonsai Village is small and easy to get around in less than an hour once you have your bearings. We loved its vibrancy – it bustles with energy and is full of travellers from all over the World and of all ages. There are a plethora of restaurants, cafes and bars – all relatively cheap.
What to do during the day on Koh Phi Phi
There’s lots to do on Koh Phi Phi during the day. Wander the narrow streets of Tonsai Village – peruse the numerous tourist shops – grab a tattoo or book a diving adventure.
There are a number of beaches on Koh Phi Phi – Long Beach, Ton Sai, Loh Moo Dee and Loh Dalum. Loh Dalum Beach, next to the village is long and lively. Beach clubs and bars line the beach and longboat taxis sit waiting to be rented. Small cabins on the beach display the prices to rent a taxi out to other beaches or islands. They are reasonable and good fun. The drivers know great snorkelling areas if you want them to stop and let you into the water. In one spot, we felt like we had been dropped in a huge, wild aquarium – there were so many large, effervescent fish swimming around us. The beach itself is pretty – though we found some more to our liking a short walk away.
NB: the sea goes out in the afternoon at Loh Dalum Beach, which means you can’t get a taxi – so make sure you time your plans well.
Keeping Tonsai pier on your right – walk out through Tonsai Village along the coast to Long Beach. It’s a great walk – about 30 minutes – beautiful scenery and interesting little bays and beaches on the way. Long Beach itself, lives up to its name – a stretch of white sand that is large enough not to feel busy. We spent a wonderful afternoon on the small beach in front of Viking Nature Resort – with a cocktail to complete the day before our stroll home.
What to do at night on Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi is known as a ‘party island’ and therefore attracts lots of young travellers. However, when the hoards go home after their day trip to the island – we felt it the island calmed into a great and inclusive atmosphere. Along the beach are numerous bars that come alive at night – music – fire shows and dancing. You can wander in and out until you find music that suits you. We found the audience was really mixed – young and old strutting their stuff. Younger travellers buy buckets – think those sold with a spade at an English seaside resort – with a small bottle of spirits, two mixers and a straw either from the bars or street vendors. Cannibis shops as everywhere in Thailand are scattered in and amongst the restaurants. There is a boxing ring in the Reggae Bar, hidden within the myriad of small lanes – free to enter if you buy a drink. This is not Muay Thai boxing though it advertises itself as being. On the night we went – they were encouraging pissed-up young travellers to fight each other for fun – it didn’t sit quite comfortably with us having 5 young adults of our own at home! If you want something quieter – there’s plenty of romantic beachside restaurants and bars. We went out on a taxi boat and watched the sun set one evening – which was fun – though surprisingly windy once we got out of the sanctuary of the bay. Put it this way – Koh Phi Phi at night is a lot of fun and we didn’t manage to get to bed before 2am on either night!
Travelling to and from Koh Phi Phi
The only way is via boat. Everywhere you go there are small, open offices selling ferry and boat crossings to different places. If you watched Race Across the World when they travelled through Thailand, you will see how easy it is to pick up a boat crossing. The travel offices normally take cash only – remember in Thailand CASH is KING. Each travel stand (sometimes you will see a whole selection of them on one street) deal with different ferry and speedboat companies – with different tariffs and times. It is worth checking with a couple to see the variation and choose a time and tariff to suit. It’s always daunting parting with cash and receiving a slip of paper, with a handwritten date and time, not knowing whether this will be valid or not. We forget that this was how travel used to be. These handwritten notes were always honoured though don’t lose them or miss the boat – you won’t get a refund. The docks always feel chaotic – arrive at the allocated time and see the relevant ferry company representative – they give you a sticker to make sure you get on the right boat. When you arrive at Koh Phi Phi you pay 20 Baht each – in cash – as you leave the landing dock – make sure you have this small change in your pocket.
Accommodation in Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi is a small and very popular tourist island. Therefore, accommodation is more expensive than in the big resorts. But there is a whole range, from luxury spa resorts to very basic hostels. We stayed in a great boutique hotel, part of the Blu Monkey chain, right in the centre. Breakfast wasn’t included – no need as so many cafes all around it. It was very clean, modern, a large room and in the heart of everything. We cannot recommend enough.
We would have loved three nights in Koh Phi Phi – it had such a vibrant, happy, hippy feel – for those promoting only a daytrip to the island – shame on you!
We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us. 